With a little care, you can change your seasonal wheels yourself – the right tools, the correct tightening torque, and a few safety rules are important. And to ensure that the removed wheels survive the next season well, proper storage is crucial. This guide will take you step-by-step through both.
1. When are wheels changed?
Most frequently, they are changed seasonally – as a rule of thumb "from O to E" (October to Easter). However, temperatures are decisive: below about 7 °C, winter tires have an advantage. Other occasions include a flat tire, worn tread (see tread depth), or switching to a different wheel set. Before mounting winter wheels, check that the tires bear the Alpine symbol (snowflake) – only then are they considered winter tires. If you use one set all year round, the seasonal change is not necessary, but you should regularly check the tread and condition.
2. Tools and preparation
With the right equipment, changing wheels is safe and quick. You should have these things ready:
- Jack (sufficient load capacity for your vehicle)
- Torque wrench – indispensable for correct tightening
- Wheel brace or socket wrench for loosening
- Wheel chocks and a level, solid surface
- Optional: Wire brush and copper paste for the wheel hub
Apply the handbrake, put the car in gear (or P position), and secure the vehicle with wheel chocks to prevent it from rolling away. Lay out your tools within reach before you start, and avoid working on the side of the road if possible; instead, choose a safe, quiet place.
3. Changing wheels – step by step
- Loosen wheel bolts (only loosen, do not yet unscrew) while the wheel is on the ground.
- Jack up the vehicle – only at the jacking points specified by the manufacturer.
- Unscrew bolts and remove the wheel.
- Clean the contact surface on the hub of rust/dirt if necessary (apply a thin layer of copper paste only to the centering, not to the contact surface).
- Mount the new wheel and hand-tighten the bolts in a cross pattern.
- Lower the vehicle and tighten the bolts with a torque wrench in a cross pattern to the prescribed torque.
Take your time with each of these steps and work calmly. Loosening the bolts while the car is on the ground is particularly important: otherwise, the wheel would spin on a jacked-up vehicle. Also, make sure to lay the removed wheel flat so that it doesn't roll away or tip over.
4. The correct tightening torque
The correct torque is stated in your vehicle's owner's manual – it depends on the vehicle, rim type, and bolt, and for many passenger cars, it is roughly in the range of about 100 to 130 Nm; however, the manufacturer's specification for your vehicle is always decisive. Too little torque is dangerous (wheel can come loose), too much can damage threads and rims. Tightening in a cross pattern ensures that the wheel fits evenly and flat against the hub – if you tighten one bolt after another in a circle, the wheel can easily sit crooked. Important:
- Always tighten in a cross pattern so that the wheel sits flat.
- Use a torque wrench instead of "by feel".
- Retighten after about 50–100 km – especially with new rims, the connection settles.
- When changing between steel and aluminum rims, use different, suitable wheel bolts if necessary.
5. Safety first
- Never work under a vehicle that is only jacked up.
- Only use the designated jacking points for the jack.
- Park the vehicle on a solid, level surface.
- Check the tire pressure after changing.
6. Common mistakes when changing wheels
You should avoid these mistakes – some of them are safety-critical:
- Working without a torque wrench: Bolts tightened "by feel" are often too tight or too loose.
- Wrong jacking points: Jacking up at the wrong point can damage the sill or cause the vehicle to slip off.
- Forgetting to retighten: Without checking after 50–100 km, any settling-related loosening goes unnoticed.
- Dirty contact surface: Rust or dirt between the hub and rim leads to uneven seating.
- Wrong wheel bolts: When changing between steel and aluminum, the old bolts often don't fit.
7. Proper storage of wheels
Proper storage extends the lifespan of your wheels. Tires age not only from driving but also from heat, moisture, and UV light – good storage protects the rubber compound:
- Clean beforehand: Remove brake dust and road salt – the guide Cleaning & caring for rims shows you how.
- Mark the position (e.g., FL, FR, RL, RR) to be able to rotate them specifically next time.
- Stack complete wheels horizontally or hang them; tires without rims, however, should be stored upright and rotated occasionally.
- Slightly increase air pressure and store in a cool, dry, dark place away from oil/solvents.
Rim trees, wall mounts, or sturdy shelves are suitable for storage; tire bags also provide additional protection against dust. Make sure that the wheels are not continuously under tension or load. A dry cellar or garage is ideal – places near electric motors are unsuitable, as they produce ozone which attacks the rubber compound. With good storage, wheels can easily last a season and more.
8. When is it better to go to the workshop?
Not every wheel change is suitable for DIY. You should go to a workshop or tire service if you lack the appropriate tools (especially a torque wrench), if you are unsure, or if tires need to be removed from the rim and re-balanced. Also, in case of stuck or damaged bolts, for vehicles with a tire pressure monitoring system that needs to be recalibrated, or if you are unsure about the jacking points, a specialist workshop is the safe choice.
9. The advantage of complete wheels
Pre-mounted and balanced complete wheels make seasonal changes particularly easy: only the wheels are exchanged, eliminating time-consuming tire mounting and dismounting. Find out more in the guide Winter complete wheels. After a long period of inactivity, it's worth checking the balancing before mounting – see Balancing tires. In addition, a second, more affordable set of rims for winter protects the often more expensive summer rims from road salt and curb damage – and you have significantly less effort when changing them.
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FAQ: Frequently asked questions about changing wheels
Can I change wheels myself?
Yes, with a little care and the right tools – especially a torque wrench. Important are a safe standing position for the vehicle, the correct jacking points, and the correct tightening torque.
What torque should I use to tighten the wheel bolts?
This depends on the vehicle and is stated in the owner's manual. Always tighten the bolts in a cross pattern with a torque wrench. Too little torque is dangerous, too much can damage threads and rims.
Do I need to retighten the wheel bolts?
Yes. After about 50 to 100 km, you should check the tightening torque again, as the connection – especially with new rims – settles.
Do I need different wheel bolts for alloy wheels?
Often yes. Steel and alloy wheels differ in thickness and seat shape. Always use the appropriate bolts or nuts for the respective rim set to ensure the wheel sits securely.
How do I store my wheels correctly?
Clean them beforehand, mark their position, and store them in a cool, dry, and dark place. You can stack complete wheels horizontally or hang them; tires without rims should be stored upright and rotated occasionally. The air pressure may be slightly increased.
How long does a wheel change take?
Experienced individuals can often change a complete set in under an hour. With pre-mounted complete wheels, it's particularly quick because only the wheels are exchanged.
How do I store tires without rims?
Tires without rims are best stored upright and rotated occasionally so that they don't deform. Complete wheels with rims, on the other hand, are stacked horizontally or hung. In both cases: cool, dry, dark, and away from oils and electric motors.
How often should I rotate my wheels?
An axle swap (rotation) during seasonal changes compensates for different wear between the front and rear axles and extends the lifespan of the set. Pay attention to the rolling direction of directional tires.
Sources
- Vehicle owner's manual – tightening torque and jack jacking points
- Basics of wheel mounting – cross-tightening, retightening, wheel bolt seat shape